by Amanda Torie/Staff Writer
Five years ago, I would have never dreamed of turning on my television and finding that one of the major news channels had dedicated hours to bashing McDonalds. Sure, the food has never been what anyone would define as healthy, but when did it become such a big deal, when did everyone start to care? When did the world all of a sudden wake up and realize that there was pure evil lurking behind the smile of the “beloved” Ronald McDonald?
It seems to me that in the past few years the United States has experienced somewhat of a great awakening when it comes to food. For a long time the focus on food has been centered on efforts to feed the growing masses in the most efficient, cheap manner possible. While this seems logical enough, there are some major trade offs that have brought us as Americans to the point where we are seriously calling into question the true value of the food we ingest. There is a slew of environmental, health, energy, and ethical issues that form an ominous trail behind the industrial systems by which our food is produced.
Fast Food Nation by Eric Schlosser delves into some of the most controversial issues surrounding America’s food industry, namely the fast food industry. He discusses topics such as cattle rearing, slaughter, and the history of a less than glamorous meatpacking and production system. Mirroring the muckraking method of journalism made popular by Upton Sinclair in the early twentieth century, Schlosser goes where very few authors have gone before, from the restaurants, to the factories, and even out to the cattle ranches.
This book begins with an in-depth analysis on the formation and growth of perhaps the most famous restaurant in the world, McDonalds.
World War II and the following years had created a new American culture, which became increasingly reliant on the automobile. As billions were invested in roads by the government and more affordable cars were marketed to the middle class, a new era was born. Americans were spending more and more time on the road, living faster paced lives, and demanding the services and goods they consumed to keep up with their new lifestyle.
It was during this time that two brothers decided to convert their restaurant into somewhat of a self-service, food factory establishment. This meant that staff needed little to no training, disposable utensils and plates eliminated the need for washing and a new smaller, and a set menu simplified the process as well. The ultimate result was that this new restaurant could charge rock bottom prices for their burgers, sending their competition scrambling no doubt.
Richard McDonald, one of the founders of the original McDonalds, was an untrained architect who designed the golden arches in an effort to make the restaurant easier to spot from the road. Little did he know, the golden arches would become one of the greatest, most enduring corporate symbols of all time.
The point that Schlosser was making by talking about the self-service and architectural aspects of McDonalds is that in combination they created a sort of beckoning for the growing middle class. Middle class families could finally afford to eat at a restaurant with solid, reliable, and fast service. While this seems rather mundane, it laid the groundwork for a fast food industry that to this day makes it their goal to work fast and charge less.
However, in order to work fast, charge less, and expand to keep up with growing demand, McDonalds had to learn how to take its factory line service, and put it on an even larger, corporate scale. In essence, it needed to become as sufficient at opening and supplying stores as it did at making burgers. This was no small task for an emerging industry with any real precedents to look to.
This is where the history of McDonalds ends and the author switches gears to the topic of the rest of the book, how food is produced today, which as you probably guessed stems largely from the growth of fast food and a fast nation.
The author spends a great deal of the pages discussing the cattle and meat production industries, vividly describing through first hand experience what it is really like for the cow that ends up in our burger.
He begins with a visit to a ranch and then moves onto a slaughterhouse, then onto meat packing and finally back to us, the consumer. Some of the details which he shares are truly unbelievable. To those of us who picture our cows happily grazing in the sun, there is truly a shock in store. This section of the book is largely reminiscent of Upton Sinclair’s The Jungle. His unmerciful descriptions of the slaughter of the cows, the stench, and the danger of the job are almost enough to drive meat lovers to vegetarianism.
However, I do not believe that his goal in writing this book was to turn everyone against meat and McDonalds, I think that it was more an effort to bring into the light outdated methods. The fact of the matter is that we are still an automobile society, but we are also one with obesity and environmental degradation. Something has to give. What the author aimed to do with the McDonalds example was to display a certain mindset that is destroying our society. Let’s call it the McDonalds mind set. What the McDonalds mindset says is that what matters is now. What matters is that our customers get their food quickly, reliably, and cheaply. What matters is that we make a profit. What matters is not the health of the customers or the environment, but rather the health of our company and our pocket books. That is a pretty powerful mindset.
If the environmental side of the story is of particular interest to you, I would highly recommend The Omnivore’s Dilemma by Michael Pollan. This book takes a look at some of the same issues as fast food nation, just from a different standpoint. Instead of looking at issues in terms of human wealth, health, and happiness, this book looks at the same things in terms of other animals and environmental sustainability.
What I found most interesting about this book was the way in which it followed corn from the industrial fields of growth all the way to almost everything that we eat and drink. I personally had no idea that corn is in just about everything. It is truly fascinating (in both good and bad ways).
This book is extremely recommendable to those of you who are into buying organic, and t is a must for anyone who shops at places like Whole Foods. There is a lot of gray area in laws regarding the declaration of a food product as organic. For example, organic, free range chicken, as sold at Whole Foods, does not necessarily mean that the chicken was not raised in a metal barrack. Some of the flaws that are pointed out with the organic food industry may not be welcome news to many who spend more money on this type of food, but it is certainly a necessary step to understand these things as an informed consumer. American society has proved its willingness to pay a premium for the peace of mind that they are being environmentally friendly, and not surprisingly many industries have stepped in to profit.
Because organic farming is a relatively new, or should I say renewed phenomenon (it was once the only way), there are few laws that can effectively dictate and control this field. The author does a great job of explaining this issue and acknowledging the importance of America’s willingness to pay extra for peace of mind. It truly does become a background theme of the book, the desire and also the complexity of being environmentally conscious.
As the economy continues to tank the question of trading the environment for money becomes even scarier. Whether industrial or organic food will ultimately trump is up in the air at the moment. Like I said earlier, with the times so uncertain, it is likely that more and more people will buy the food that is the cheapest, benefiting them but seriously threatening the earth’s ability to produce for them in the future.
No matter what your consumption habits, these two books are incredibly worthwhile. After all, who does not want to know about the very things with which they feed themselves? Enjoy.


